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Saturday, May 3, 2008

LCBO Vintages Blended Wine Shocker

Was it a case of bait and switch?
Some Toronto wine writers have noted that some of the same wines submitted to Robert Parker for review are not the same wines offered for sale through LCBO Vintages for purchase by consumers -- even though the labels are the same! Indeed, one writer decided that it was a case of different lots, and he began adding Lot Numbers to his reviews.
Occasionally, a writer (such as myself) will note a different grape varietal composition in the blend, one that was different than what was stated in the review or on the back label. There are two cases of this in the upcoming June 7, 2008 Vintages release.
Craneford Basket Pressed Quartet 2005 Barossa ($26.95) was given a 91 by Parker. He cited a blend of 50% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot, 2% cabernet franc, and 8% shiraz. Yet the back label plainly says 40% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot, 20% grenache, and 20% shiraz. In other words, a different blend for the Ontario market??? The wine I tasted in the preview was good, but not as good as the 91 point review Parker wrote. It just didn't have loads of sweet tannins. The full review (not just the number) is appended to the Vintages catalogue.
The second wine is Tomas Cuisine Vilosell 2005 Costers del Segre ($20.95) from Spain. Jay Miller wrote this review, and gave it a 91 for Parker's newsletter. He stated that it is 50% tempranillo, 26% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, 9% garnacha (grenache), and 5% syrah. Yet the back label says 58% tempranillo, 27% cabernet sauvignon, 8% carignane, 3% merlot, and 4% syrah. In other words, a different blend for the Ontario market??? The wine tasted about the same as his notes, but I certainly wouldn't give it a 91. The full review (not just the number) is appended to the Vintages catalogue.
So what gives? When I pointed this out to the wine writers' contact at the LCBO, there seemed to be some concern. I was asked to leave beyond hearing range and earshot while a conversation ensued. Then, a tasting panel of top LCBO wine tasters was hurriedly convened. There were some comings and goings...
Questions need to be asked: will the wines be offered as is? will the reviews be truncated to eliminate all mention of the percentages of the blends? will the invoices be looked at to see if indeed there was a bait and switch? will there be a downward revision of prices? will the wines be pulled? will they become ISDs (In Store Disappearances)? Stay tuned...

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